Monday, July 16, 2018

Iceland May-June 2018, Part 2 - The Golden Circle, West Iceland and Westfjours


 Right after we departed the ship we headed to the Touring Cars location. Here we picked up our Deluxe Motorhome. I guess it was deluxe because it came with a toilet and shower, something most of the campers lacked. Surprisingly none of the campers had microwaves - I thought I would starve. (I did lose weight on this trip!) After a somewhat adequate explanation of the features of the RV, we were on our way.
 

Fault  at Thingvellir National Park
We wanted to do the Golden Circle Tour first because we knew it would be jammed with tourists if we waited to do it in late June. The Gold en Circle Tour includes the most popular tourist sites (after the Blue Lagoon) in Iceland. First is Thingvellir National Park, famous because you can walk in the rift valley between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates and it holds significant historical value in the development of Iceland. The next stop is Geysir, but this famous geyser has been replaced by its more reliable neighbor, Strokkur geyser, which we watched erupt about every 5 minutes. Last is our favorite waterfall in Iceland (and we have seen more than a hundred), Gullfoss, a spectacular double cascade dropping about 100 feet. Don’t miss this one! We skipped the Blue Lagoon, since we had been there three times previously.

Strokkur Geyser

Gullfoss

Raudfeldsgja Canyon, better watch your step!
After the Golden Circle, we drove to West Iceland to tour the Settlement Center in Borgarnes. We drove out to the Snaefellsnes Peninsula to see stuff we missed on the shore excursion. We stopped at Raudfeldsgja, where a gorge cuts deep into the mountain. We tried to enter the gorge, but steep and slippery snow banks, with big drop-offs, discouraged exploration. A safer bet was the popular and scenic shore walk between Arnarstapi and Hellnar, which we completed. We camped in Stykkisholmur and took the ferry to the Westfjords.


Ferry to Westfjords 

After a 2-hour ferry ride, we landed near Flokalundur and started a hike in Vatnsfjordur Nature Reserve. We had hardly started the hike, when Pat said “There’s an Arctic Fox”. I thought she was joking, but sure enough, the fox was just ahead of us, checking us out. The next day we were hiking in the reserve on a trail with lots of waterfalls, when we met a group of hikers from Seattle. I asked them if they felt right at home with the cool (in 40’s) drizzle which seemed to be the norm in this part of Iceland. 
Arctic Fox
  Only about 10% of Iceland’s visitors ever get to the Westfjords, so crowding was not a problem. The wind was another story. We were cautioned about the winds in Iceland by the rental company. We were told not to drive when the winds exceeded 14 m/s (about 31 mph). Prior to crossing a mountain, there was a digital display of the current temperature and wind speed at the top. That might not sound like much wind, but when you are driving a sailboat (at least it feels like one), down a steep narrow one lane dirt road with a sheer drop off, you will find it scary. So, when we had the time, we delayed our trip or took an alternate route. When we complained to a local about the wind, her rhetorical reply was, “What would Iceland be without the wind?” (Our answer: Fine, enjoyable, pleasant, warmer)
Whimbrel

Dynjandi
After our wind detour, we arrived at Dynjandi, the most dramatic and beautiful waterfall in the Westfjords.  At Bolungarvik, we toured a historic fishing village, Osvir, and our costumed guide took us though the old buildings and explained how the fishermen lived in those days. At Holmavik, we had to check out the Museum of Sorcery and Witchcraft. In the past, the witch hunters in Iceland burned 19 men and one woman at the stake.
Fishermen used seal skins to keep dry

Redshank


Alaskan Lupine

White-tailed Eagle

Our home on wheels



Rednecked Phalarope

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