Saturday, June 3, 2023

Trip Update Mar-May 2023 Part 1 MD to NM

Pat at Alley Mills and Alley Mills Spring

We left March 24 and headed west. We stopped in Elkhart, IN for RV service and then headed down to the Ozark Mountains. We found the roads in Il even worse than PA’s, but the road hazards were minor compared to the weather hazards. Strong winds and tornado warnings were frequent and made RV driving difficult. One night a tornado was scheduled to pass through our area in the middle of the night. Fortunately, it took a different path. I used to think that with a house on wheels, it would be easy to avoid tornados, but I learned that the storm fronts are so wide and the exact path is unpredictable so that trying to outrun them is usually not practical.


Cave on Current River

Whoever developed the first roller coaster must have been from the hills of MO. Riding a roller coaster road in an RV for 20 miles is exhausting and breathtaking. We took the car on a side trip to Rocky Falls Park for lunch and a hike. When we returned to the car, we realized we were locked out of our car. After going around in circles with our Road Assistance provider, the local sheriff’s department and a US Park Ranger, a woman who had lunch at the same picnic table where we ate lunch found our keys on the table. Boy did we feel foolish!


Bluff on Jacks Fork River

The main reason we went to the Ozarks was to canoe some of the rivers. Getting an outfitter to provide a canoe and shuttle was not a problem. First, we did the Current River starting at Akers. We got flushed downstream at 5 mph due to the high-water level. Next, we canoed the Jack’s Fork River, where we put in at Alley Mills. We expected an easy and fast float downstream, and we were busy enjoying the scenery when we got caught in a sweeper (a fallen tree at the water level that will cause boats to flip and then be pinned against the tree). I managed to walk the canoe upstream until we could cross to the other side and carry around the blockage. The remainder of the trip was enjoyable. These are spring fed rivers that flow year-round. There were many large springs in the area to explore.

 

Sunset over the Buffalo River area

There were plans to dam the Current River starting in the 1930’s and again in the 1950’s. Conservationists rallied support to protect the Current and Jacks Forks Rivers and they became part of the Ozarks National Scenic Riverways in 1972. These rivers were a warm up for us before canoeing the Buffalo River in Arkansas. The Buffalo River has been on my “Bucket List” for 40+ years. It was the first National River (Wild and Scenic River). This designation protected its deep valleys, towering bluffs and wilderness character.


Waterfall under Natural Bridge

Words of wisdom

Glory Hole- Waterfall through a hole in the rock

Alum Cove Natural Bridge

Bluffs along the Buffalo River

We put in at Ponca, AR to paddle the most scenic portion of the river. It was a chilly day, and I felt bad for the people that chose to paddle the river in sit on top kayaks - they would be wet and cold all day. We did a hike to Hemmed-in-Hollow before finishing the river trip. The area around the Buffalo River was interesting with many caves and waterfalls.



Lunch Break

Waterfall at Hemmed-in-Hollow

Another damn sunset!

Next, we had to drive across Oklahoma to get to Texas and New Mexico. Now OK was never very high on my list of interesting state to visit, but I had to upgrade its status after a visit to Tulsa. We arrived on Easter weekend, which is not a good time to visit a city with almost everything shut down. Through our World-Wide Travers Club, we contacted a local woman who offered to give us a tour of the town. This woman has been to 235 countries! Compared to her, I felt like a stay-at-home recluse.


Hummingbird feeding at Tulsa Botanical Gardens

Art Deco Building in Tulsa

The Oil Boom 1901-1907 changed Tulsa from a frontier town to a boomtown. A Second Oil boom occurred between 1915 and 1930. Tulsa became the Oil Capital of the World, and home to many millionaires. There was a building boom and Art Deco was in vogue. We toured the downtown area and explored the tunnels that connected some of the buildings. Route 66 goes through Tulsa so there were some interesting attractions there. In Elk, OK we went through the National Route 66 Museum.


Art Deco Furnishings

Road into Palo Duro Canyon

In Texas, we spent some time in Palo Duro Canyon, which is south of Amarillo. Our final stop was Albuquerque, NM. Here we put our RV in storage at the local KOA, and flew from ABQ to the Big Island of Hawaii.



Texas Long Nosed Snake

Sunset over Palo Duro area

Trip Update Mar-May 2023 Part 2 Hawaii

Sunset in Hawaii
Grey Crowned Crane at Panaewa Rainforest Zoo

We flew to Kona on the Big Island of Hawaii. We picked up our Turo (ride sharing business) car and we were on the road in a jiffy, while our fellow passengers were boarding rental car buses. We drove over the Saddle Road to Pahoa, a suburb of Hilo and checked into our AirBNB. The next day was kind of nasty so we checked out a couple of free museums in Hilo. (WOW something FREE in Hawaii!). We also toured the local zoo.


Mushroom explosion on Puna Trail

Pat on trail down to the volcano

Kalij Pheasant looking for a handout

We went to Volcano NP and hiked into the crater.  When we stopped for lunch, we meet a local Kalij pheasant who was also looking for lunch -from us! There was no significant volcanic activity on the island while we were there.


Volcano NP


Lava Tree Mold



Flowers from the Gardens



Colorful leaves too

The highlights of the Hilo area are the gardens. We spent a couple of hours at the HI Tropical Biosphere and Gardens. From here we drove back to Kona, stopping to take a rain soaking hike along the way. We checked into a timeshare on the coast near Kona. We took a snorkeling tour boat to Captain Cook Memorial. It was a nice trip, but the snorkeling was a bit disappointing. We spent the rest of the week at the beaches or on the trails. One resort charged us $20 to park in their public access parking lot. These lots have always been free in the past. We did see a lot of turtles while beachcombing.




Shark bait at Captain Cook Monument

Flower on the Big Island

Next, we flew to Kauai and after a night in a hotel, we checked into a great timeshare, the Bali Hai in Princeville. You could say we did the same thing here as we did on the Big Island; hike, visit gardens and go to the beach. True, but each island is different and has its own characteristics. We got married at the Coco Palms Resort on Kauai in 1982. A few years later, the resort was demolished by a hurricane. Some 35 years later, they are still talking about reconstruction.

Green Sea Turtle

Sunset from our Kona condo.

Blowhole on Kauai

Pat at Limahuli Garden

A change we found from previous visits were high entrance fees for tourist to some parks that used to be free. I guess Hawaii is trying to make up for the loss revenue from COVID. Overall, the higher prices we expected to pay because it is Hawaii, were even higher.

Wildflower on Kauai

Cliffs of Lanai

Spiner Dolphins

The last Island we visited was Maui. Here we had a condo in Kihei. From here we took a snorkeling trip out to Lanai. We ended up on the far side of the island due to the wave action. The snorkeling was OK, but at least we saw Spinner Dolphins on the trip in and out. After that trip, we decided to stick to sites we could access by swimming. Oddly enough, at an old deserted boat harbor, we saw better coral and more fish than we did on our boat trip! We did see about 7 green sea turtles a day while on Maui. After 5 days, we flew back to Albuquerque[DJ1] .


 [DJ1]




Sunset from our Maui condo

Trip Update Mar- May 2023 Part 3 NM-MT

Sunset at Curt Goudy SP

After returning from Hawaii, we picked up our RV in Albuquerque and started north. Just south of the CO/NM border, we stayed at Sugarite SP. This land was formerly a mining town and the ruins of some of the building and some of the mining equipment remained in place. The park developed the site with signs to explain the previous lifestyle.

We moved up to Cherry Creek SP in Denver and went out to dinner with Nick and Kristen. We had a nice dinner and Nick treated us at a fine Mexican restaurant in his old neighborhood. Further north, between Cheyenne and Laramie, WY we discovered Curt Goudy SP, a real gem. We did a couple hikes here in this beautiful park. Next, we went to Sinks SP near Lander, WY where the Popo Agie River flows into a sink hole and emerges several 100 feet downstream. We hiked up the canyon to see the massive Popo Agie Falls. The picture here is just a small part of the total falls. The third part of this delightful trio of parks was the Dubois Badlands, about fifty miles east of the Grand Teton NP. Such a beautiful area that is ignored by the crowds that pack GTNP.



Mountain Bluebird

One section of Popo Agie Falls

 



River Rise for Popo Agie River



Dubois Badlands


Dubois Badlands

Dubois Badlands


Grand Teton
In the Tetons, we spent several hours looking for wildlife, other than elk, which were everywhere. Our diligence paid off when I spotted a sow with her three cubs crossing a field as we were driving by. I guess I started a bear jam, because soon the road and shoulders were packed with cars. Unfortunately, momma bear took her cubs into the woods and most of the onlookers missed the show and left disappointed. I did not even get a picture. We did some hiking, but after hiking on old snow, we stuck to open fields where the snow was long gone.



Hiking in snow in GTNP

Elk everywhere

Frozen Lewis Lake

When we entered Yellowstone NP, we found Lewis Lake frozen over, but as we moved lower in elevation and closer to the thermal areas, most of the ice and snow were gone. Last year when we were forced to leave YNP due to the floods, we had not completed our tour of the park, missing the entire northern section and Yellowstone Canyon. The road to Gardiner, MT was destroyed last year, but a new one had been quickly built. That allowed us to stay in Gardiner while we explored the park.



Resting Elk in YNP

Grey Wolf

The first morning we were up at 5 am so we could get to Lamar Valley and see the wildlife that is out early. One advantage of the bad winter (heavy snows) was that the calving season had been delayed and most of the animal were just starting to calf. Of course, bison were everywhere, and bison nurseries had lots of newborns. We also saw 2 grizzlies and several wolves. At one spot, people were watching a wolf den about a third of a mile away with their spotting scopes and expensive cameras and lens. Due to brain fog, that did not lift until about 7 am, we forgot to bring our binoculars and our cell phone camera just was not up to the task! Afterwards we spent some time exploring the Mammoth Hot Springs area and saw several beautiful and colorful formations.



Mammoth Hot Springs 

Bison with newborn

Upper Yellowstone Falls

Two Classics

The next day we hiked the Yellowstone Canyon Rim Trail and went to viewpoints on both sides of the canyon. On our way back to Gardiner, we saw a cinnamon black bear, but her two cubs were up in a tree and later we saw another black bear with two cubs.  It was a good finish to our trip.




Cinnamon Bear



Undine Falls

Black Bear with 2 cubs