June 2012 Norway by Sea Part 1 of 3

The Ship

The main purpose of our trip to Norway was to take the Coastal Steamer (aka Hurtigruten ships) up the coast of Norway. The Coastal Steamer is what you get when you cross a small cruise ship with a large ferry. The interior of the ship looks like a normal cruise ship, but as a ferry it stops at all coastal ports delivering or picking up passengers, cars and cargo. Our ship was the Trollfjord. It carried 822 passengers.

Pat looking at Geirangerfjord

Nidaros Cathedral

Coastal Steamer dwarfed by the mountains

Map of Norway with port stops indicated

The Cruise

We opted for the round trip, 12 day cruise starting at Bergen. Although there are many routing options, this is the most popular. Our breakfast and lunch were buffets and open seating, dinner was a fixed menu and assigned table and time. Despite our initial fear that we would be eating pickled herring and smoked meats at each meal, we found plenty of options at the buffets and the Norwegian dinners were excellent. Except for daily excursions there was minimal entertainment on the ship. The best free entertainment was enjoying the scenery and the passing of the various towns along the way. This entertainment was available 24 hours a day thanks to the Midnight Sun! The docking and unloading was always interesting to watch. A forklift driver would be rushing to unload/load the ship while absent minded passengers/bystanders would get in his way and practically get run over.  After a while you started rooting for the forklift driver.

June 2012 Norway by Sea Part 2 of 3

Excursions

Usually there were several excursions offered every day. We tried to do one each day, either by boat or by bus. Here is a description of the tours we enjoyed:

We did a bus tour from the Geirangerfjord to Alesund with some great photo opportunities.

Another bus tour took us into Trondheim to see the Nidaros cathedral and the Ringve Museum of Music History. We had excellent guides at both locations and at our last stop our music student guide played several unusual instruments for us.

In Boda, we did a RIB (Rigid Inflatable Boat) trip where we crossed a fjord at 35 mph, powered through turbulent tidal whirlpools, saw three sea eagles, and some interesting rock formations.

After our excursion in Tromso, we were walking around town when Hillary Clinton’s motorcade drove right past us. We couldn’t imagine what she was doing in such a remote location above the Arctic Circle.

On another bus trip we joined a Sami (aka Laplander) family in their teepee. They explained their way of life which included herding reindeer. They use every part of the reindeer and showed us some of the items they made. Outside we practiced throwing a lariat onto reindeer antlers.

A Sami guide took us by motor boat to the Russian border. He warned us not to cross the border, not even with your hand. Of course several tourists over the years ignored his advice and were immediately arrested – not by the Russians but by the Norwegian Border Patrol.

Sami Couple

Reindeer

Our ship making a U turn in Trollfjord

Mountain tops lit by Midnight Sun

Our last excursion was a bus trip on the Atlantic Road. This road was voted the most scenic drive in Northern Europe several years ago. We stopped at a local restaurant and had a traditional dinner (a salted cod stew) which was delicious.

June 2012 Norway by Sea Part 3 of 3

Arctic Crossing

 On the fourth day we crossed the Arctic Circle (approximately 66.5 degrees, north latitude).  For this occasion, King Neptune appeared and baptized all willing passenger with a ladle full of ice water down your back. Pat and I were both baptized. On the return crossing there was a different ceremony. You drank a tablespoon of cod liver oil followed by a brandy chaser. Then you receive a souvenir spoon commemorating the Arctic Crossing.

Famous Arctic Explorer?

King Neptune

Pat gets a new friend

Arctic Circle marker - Vikingen island

Quiz Answers
1) False  The Latitude of the Arctic Circle = 90 degrees minus the tilt of the earth's axis (which does change).
2) B. Currently at approximately 66.5 degrees north latitude