Monday, August 19, 2024

Amazon and Pantanal July and August 2024



On the Rio Negro, the Tuscano Motor Yacht

This was our three-week trip to the Amazon and the Pantanal. We left from Helena, MT. Our flights were relatively uneventful. We just had one 1.5 hr delay departing Miami for Sao Pablo. I had arranged a wheelchair for Pat at each airport, due to her bad knee (replacement surgery scheduled for Sept 5). In theory, someone would pick her up at check in and take her to the gate, and after we landed someone would be outside the plane with a wheelchair waiting. United did a pretty good job in providing this service. Latam Airline service was spotty, and GOL airlines was bad. I feel sorry for any handicap person in SA, there just is not much accommodation for them.



Exploring through the flooded forest

Squirrel Monkeys jumping through the forest*

Our first destination was Manaus, 2 degrees south of the Equator, on the eastern edge of the Amazon. Due to its remote location, I thought this might be a small backwater community. Boy, was I wrong! Manaus has a population of almost 2 million. It was one of the riches cities in the world in the early 1900’s when rubber was king. We didn’t have time to explore the city then because we had an early morning pickup the next day to start our week-long cruise on the Rio Negro. We boarded the Tucano (with Rainforest Cruises). With only 8 passengers and 8 crew, there was plenty of room for everyone. We followed the same routine almost every day; four 2-hour tours. We started with a 6 AM excursion in a 26-foot motorized boat with 4 passengers and a guide. This was the best time to see wildlife, esp. birds. We mostly toured through the flooded forest areas. After breakfast we went out again. The meals on the cruise were excellent. We had some free time after lunch to relax. In late afternoon we would go out again until dusk - this was a good time to see Monkeys and sloths. After dinner when it was dark, we would go out in the boat again with a spot light. This was a good time to see snakes, lizards and rodents. The most amazing part of the night trip was the clear night sky with zero light pollution. 



Relaxing on the upper deck of the Tuscano

Ringed Kingfisher*

Hoatzin*

Swimming in the Rio Negro

One afternoon we went Piranha fishing. Pat was the master, pulling in the big ones, which we had for dinner. We did see a fair amount of wildlife during the trip, but it sure helps to have a good guide - without one, you could easily miss most of the sightings. The most unusual animals we saw were the pink and gray river dolphins, Squirrel Monkeys, Toco Toucans, a brown-bearded Saki Monkey, Ringed and Amazon Kingfishers, Red Howler Monkeys, a Hoatzin bird, and three-toed sloths. We saw three sloths and a baby. There were hundreds of various parrots. The problem with wildlife tours in the Amazon region is that there are just too many places for wildlife to hide. I was wary of swimming in these waters, with the piranha and the candiru (aka Penis Fish), but the guides assured us we would be fine and we were.

The rest of our group cruises by with their guide

Three toed Sloth is good at hiding


Red Howler Monkey*


Sunset

Amazon Kingfisher*

Fishing Huts

City of Manaus

As we returned to the Manaus area, we went to the Meeting of the Waters. Here the muddy brown Amazon River meets the dark Rio Negro River. They meet but don’t really mix. In fact, you can follow the 2 rivers side by side for 18 KM before they really merge. We explored a channel in the Amazon basin and saw many temporary fishing huts used during the dry season. We learned that the Amazon basin has richer soil, more wildlife, more mosquitoes, but less diversity compared to the Rio Negro basin. Before the trip, we were warned about all the diseases that Mosquitoes carry, so we took pills for Malaria. Fortunately, we came home without any bites.

The Meeting of the Waters

The Opera House

The Opera House

After the boat trip we had two days to tour Manaus - unfortunately, Pat’s knee condition prevented us from doing much walking around. The best place we visited was the Opera House. The many Europeans that lived there during the rubber boom wanted the same cultural facilities that they enjoyed in Europe. So, except for the wood flooring, everything else was shipped from Europe to build this magnificent building. We also visited the Indian Museum and the Palace of Justice. From here we flew back to Sao Pablo, stayed overnight and flew the next day to Cuiaba, in south western Brazil.

Blue and Yellow Macaw*

 a shy Brazilian Tapir

We arrived in Cuiaba at 9:30 am, the first of three groups flying in to do a tour, with Amazonia Expeditions, of the Pantanal, one of the world’s greatest wetlands ecosystems. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site, 10 times the size of the Everglades.  Initially the plan was for us to kill time with the guide until the next group came in at 1:30 PM. But after a few hours driving around, we stopped at a fancy restaurant to get lunch and a driver took us on a 2-hour, high speed drive to the first lodge. The last group to arrive, with our trip leader, Dolly, didn’t get to the lodge until after dark due to flight delays. 

Tabebuia Trees in bloom

Cute Capybara

Rufescent Tiger Heron with dinner

We have never been to South America when Pat or I did not get sick from the food/water despite being very careful about what we consumed. I was sick by the next day. Drugs enabled me to still participate in most of the tours, although sometimes I had wished I had stayed in bed. Again, we were touring in motorized boats for 3.5 hr to as long as 6 hours. I found the longer trips difficult to endure in my condition - after a couple of hours I was ready to hit the bed. There was definitely more viewable wildlife in the Pantanal compared to the Amazon. Some of the sighting highlights from area near the first lodge: Black Caimans; Cocoi, Whistling, and Tiger Herons, Jabiru Storks, Greater Rhea, various birds of prey, Blue and Yellow Macaws; Vermillion Flycatchers, Greater Kiskadees, Brown Capuchin Monkeys, Crab-eating Fox, South American Coati, Giant Otters, Neotropical Otters, Tayra, Collared Peccary, Marsh Deer, Capybaras, and Brazilian Tapirs.  

Hungry Giant River Otters

Tayra seeking water

Harpy Eagle ready to fly

Capybaras enjoy the grass at our lodge

Jaguar on the hunt for Caiman or Capybara

The last two lodges were in Jaguar territory, and it didn’t take the guide long to locate two Jaguars patrolling the shoreline. On the last tour day of the trip, five more Jaguars were spotted - some were swimming in the river near our boats. From this point we had a 5-hour drive back to the airport at Cuiaba, then four more flights to get home. My stomach issues cleared up after a week of eating rice, bread and bananas and taking antibiotics.

Jaguar sightings draw a crowd

Successful hunt! (unfortunately we didn't see this)**

If you want to see the Pantanal, don’t delay. A new Pantanal Waterway Project could destroy this ecosystem. Now soybeans are king, and Brazil wants to dredge and develop the Paraguay River, which runs through the Pantanal, so they can barge the soybeans to the coast. When will we learn?

Notes: * Photos by Mike Cargal, **Photo from Getty Images

Thursday, May 9, 2024

Europe April -May 2024 Part 1 France

The Capital in Toulouse

This trip was planned because we had a large travel credit from Air France due to COVID. Although I’m not a big fan of France (esp. the area around Paris and their airports), I have wanted to do the Canal du Midi for decades. This canal linked the Atlantic to the Mediterranean and is a UNESCO World Heritage site because it was one of the greatest engineering achievements of the 1600’s. Of course, Air France change their refund policy and left us to pay our own way. We didn’t want to fly that far for just a week, so Germany, Austria and Slovenia were added to the agenda.

The Saint Nazaire and Saint Celsus Basilica


La Cite in Carcassonne

We flew Lufthansa to Frankfort and then on to Toulouse, France. We spent half a day in touring Toulouse, before taking the train to Carcassonne to see the historic La Cite. This a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its architecture and planning of a medieval fortress town. We moved on to Homps, where Le Boat has a port for rental boats. This was where we stayed at LeJardin d’Homps Hotel, easily with the best hospitality on our trip.

Palm Trees at LeJardin d'Homps
Our 38 foot canal boat

At Le Boat dock, a mechanic spent two hours with us showing how everything worked, and then we took a test drive. We were surprised to find out that all of our gray and black (i.e. sewage) water needs to be macerated and dumped into the canal on a daily basis.  No swimming on this trip!  We departed the next day and had 6 days to cover 80 km, and 16 locks. Unlike our previous canal trip in England, we did not have to operate the locks, there were lock keepers for that. But there was a fair amount of rope work involved in securing the boat as it dropped in the lock. For a boat this size, 38 feet long, two active adults are the minimum required to accomplish this. This trip was planned last Sept. when Pat was walking and hiking. By April she was having severe knee pain and hopping in and out of the boat to secure lines was painful. I was busy trying to hold the boat in place so she could safely get in and out, and also hold the bow rope.


Thread the Needle


House Painting

During the planning stage, I was concerned that being April, we might get a rainy week. Actually, most of the time in France was sunny and sometimes hot. The biggest problem while boating was the high wind. Initially, I was driving slowly, because I didn’t want to hit another boat on this narrow canal, but the wind was pushing me all over the place. I was wearing myself out trying to keep the boat straight. Once my Physics and vector math education kicked in, I doubled my speed, and suddenly I had control of the boat!

Sometimes docking space in town was hard to find.

Collegiate Church Saint Etienne in Capestang

Rainbows over the canal

Commercial tour boat entering the Malpas Tunnel

On the fourth day of the trip, we passed through the Malpas Tunnel, the first canal tunnel ever built in Europe. We decided to stop to get some pictures. There were no docks available so we pulled the boat next to the grassy shore, and Pat threw the rope toward the bollard. I was trying to keep the boat near the shore when she jumped from the boat to the shore. The next thing I heard was a splash and Pat was screaming “I’m in the water”. I ran down to help her get out of the water, she was in up to her chest. I got her out, but nothing was holding the boat in place, so I jumped to shore to secure the rope. I missed and now I was in the canal and needed help. Fortunately, some people walking by secured the boat while we tried to figure out what happened. It turned out that the tall grass we jumped into had extended out pass the bank, but from the boat it appeared to be covering the bank. Now we had a pile of wet and dirty (dilute sewage) clothes. We would not get to a laundry until the following evening.  I realized I didn’t have my glasses on, so I searched the boat - no luck. About this time, I was regretting my decision not to bring a spare pair, so it was either in the grass or in the bottom muck of the canal. Fortunately, I found them in the tall grass. We did start using a portable gangway when we did not have a dock.



Driving over a  river on a canal bridge

Last night on the canal

Pat’s last challenge came at the Fonserannes Staircase, a series of seven back-to-back locks. Considered a great engineering achievement for its time, the canal dropped 71 feet over 980 feet. This was a killer for Pat with the jumping in and out of the boat (no grass here!) and managing the ropes. We worked through another four locks before we docked near a laundry. I picked up a cane for Pat and it helped a bit. The following day we made it to our final stop. The next day we took a train to Marseille and flew to Munich. We said good bye to the warm sunny weather of South France.


Europe April -May 2024 Part 2 Germany

                                        The Nymphenburg Palace

We left the good weather on the other side of the Alps. Cloudy, drizzly, snowy, cool to cold weather was the norm for our time in Bavaria. From the airport we took the train downtown and checked into Hotel Opera (our splurge hotel for the trip). Since we were not going to take a walking tour, we took the Hop on Hop off Bus. We only paid for the city tour, but we somehow got the city and suburbs tour, so we saw the Nymphenburg Palace, which served as the main summer residence of the former rulers of Bavaria and we passed the site of the tragic XX Olympiad. 


The Banquet Hall at the Residenz
Dinner at Hofbrauhaus

We got a guided tour of the Nazi Documentation Center and stopped on the way back to watch surfers play on a standing wave in the Eisbach river within the English Gardens. We toured the Residenz, the former royal palace of the Wittelsbach monarchs of Bavaria, until Pat’s knee gave out. Fortunately, our hotel was able to keep Pat well supplied with ice for her knee. This was the only hotel so accommodating. We went to the Hofbräuhaus for dinner and enjoyed the beer, pretzel, shredded pancakes with applesauce and the oomph music. We went to the center square to see the 9 PM performance of the glockenspiel, but it was very short and disappointing. We returned to the Residenz to see the Treasury, where the Royal’s jewels, gold smith’s works and other valuable collectables were on display.



Live oompah music

The Old Town Hall in Munich

Dachau's Furnaces

On our last day in Munich, we picked up a rental car and a wheelchair for Pat. We visited Dachau Concentration Camp, and I pushed Pat around the site and managed to pick up a cold. This turned out to be the only time Pat used the wheelchair, due to the difficulty of using it on cobblestones, slopes and the fact that disability access is nonexistent in Europe. Next, we went to the walled, well preserved medieval city of Rothenburg. We toured the very comprehensive Medieval Crime Museum and I took the Night Watchman’s tour. During medieval times, Night Watchmen were employed to walk the city at night, primarily on fire patrol but also helped reduce crime and thief due to their surveillance. Now they provide an interesting night tour of the town. 

 A Rothenburg specialty: Schneeballen - a coated ball of fried dough

The Rothenburg Glockenspiel

The Night Watchman

Rothenburg's Town Square

Hohenschwangau Castle

From here we drove south into the Alps. We had tickets paid in advance for the two big castles there, Neuschwanstein (the Disney World castle) and Hohenschwangau, but entry to the castles involved a lot of waiting outside, a long uphill walk or a buggy ride. Due to the snow, the roads to the castles were closed. With Pat’s bad knee and my cold, we passed on this self-inflicted torture. Carol suggested Linderhof Palace (a small version of Versailles) so we went there and that was much easier to visit and very pretty. From here we drove to Salzburg.

 

Neuschwanstein Castle

Fussen's Lech River Gorge

The road to Linderhof Palace

Linderhof Palace